If Unplug Coolant Sensor Will Fan Run Continuously

952g63t

Replaced the temporary sensing element, same.

Checked the continuity of the clip that connects to the sensor. Both leads are dustlike.

It's possible that they come connected when IT gets VERY hot, but I cannot corroborate this.

When the car is running, I disconnect the temp sensor crop and they recoil on look-alike they would normally.

Could it be my ECU? Or, could it be a relay?

Thanks,

yukiz · 460 3 Jun 17, 2009 Quest arena, California

Does your car boogs down, like it looses its compression or feels like no ignition timing at all? if it is..
Most likely to comprise your ECU. I had that symptom last time, and swapped the ECU.
Merely it is a good affair to check your relay. The electrical relay should be located rider side, underneath the radio.

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Minnesota

Since the fans turn on when the temp detector is disconnected, it john't follow a fan electrical relay. It must be the 2 wire temp detector or the ECU. Most believable the temp sensor since when information technology's disconnected, the ECU turns the fans on. BTW yukiz is referring to the MFI or fuel ticker relays.

952g63t · 401 33 March 19, 2012 Summit Guide, West_Virginia

Thanks for the help/replies.

I will try and bash some logging when I puzzle out home this eventide and report back with results. Specifically, the running temps and any early information I can pile up.

Thanks again,

Does your car boogs down, like it looses its compression or feels like no ignition system timing the least bit? if it is..
Most potential to follow your ECU. I had that symptom last time, and swapped the ECU.
Merely it is a good affair to check your relay. The relay should be placed passenger side, underneath the energy.

No noticeable performance issues while the sensor is plugged in. I drove it with the sensor unplugged for about 25 miles, it seemed as though it was pulling timing OR something.

Edit:

I was not able to get my logging tool to work. Real didn't substance because I almost overheated on my outing. Fans are not coming on at high temps...

I was cruising at 75 for about 20 proceedings so my temp started to shoot up historical the symbolization, never actually going above it. Temps came back down afterwards I slowed down.

I good dont get IT.

952g63t

I am going to test the voltage readings to the 2 pins. What should I be seeing connected each lead? I consider they are both black wires, one has continuous white band, and the other is a broken/dashed white stripe.

Only other affair I can think to test is continuity from pin 83 happening the ECU, and the ECU itself for leaky caps, etc.

Thanks,

952g63t · 401 33 Mar 19, 2012 Summit Point, West_Virginia

I will try that, give thanks you.

I may wire up my fans to my AC fan power in order to have something until i give the sack image this out.

:banghead:

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Gopher State

It's still good to chip resistance even though it's unweathered - bad new ones have been known to happen.

If CTS is ok it is possible the ECU is bad (ordinarily tattling caps) soh you should probably check that next. However initial unplug the CTS and with key on, measure voltage on the tackle sidelong connector. IT should be 5v. Now plug in the CTS and measure voltage again with key on (may have to stopple CTS in with jumpers to get at it).
At 32*F: you should get 3.2-3.8v.
At 68*F: 2.3-2.9v.
At 104*F: 1.3-1.9v.
At 176*F: 0.3-0.9v.
This leave help see if at to the lowest degree that break u of the ECU is recitation correctly. Naturally if you ever read virtually zero, you whitethorn also have a broken wire or a connector that isn't coupling right.

952g63t · 401 33 Mar 19, 2012 Summit Point, West_Virginia

5.6 - 5.7 at plug with ignition on.

Not able to test with it connected, I pauperism some alligator clips operating theatre something.

Going to go ahead and pull my ecu and give information technology a good once all over.

Sensor resistance checked out.

Here are some shots of the ecu, didn't come across anything to cause alarm.

This really really sucks.

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Minnesota

Zero rotten fish smell on ECU board or components leaking?
This doesn't make sense. You unplug the CTS and fans (both fans at unpeasant-smelling speed?) go on which says the ECU is working and the CTS is severe. Yet you've replaced (the 2 wire CTS one now - not the 1 wire one) the CTS and measured it's resistance and you say it's in spec. It hush up sounds like the CTS is badly or perhaps it's connector ISN't mating properly. Check IT's connector. Then connect the CTS through jumpers to it's connector indeed you bathroom measuring stick the voltage on it. Compare to spec values I stated in post 9.

952g63t

No rotten fish scent happening ECU board or components leaking?
This doesn't pull in sensation. You unplug the CTS and fans (both fans at adenoidal speed?) advance which says the ECU is working and the CTS is bad. Yet you've replaced (the 2 wire CTS one now - not the 1 wire one) the CTS and plumbed it's impedance and you say information technology's in specification. It shut up sounds like the CTS is big or perhaps it's connective isn't mating properly. Check it's connector. Then connect the CTS through jumpers to it's connector so you can meter the emf connected it. Compare to spec values I explicit in post 9.

No fishy smell, no permeable caps.

Fans come out, non sure if its malodorous speed but they sound regular compared to how loud they were earlier.

Yes, the (2 telegram) CTS.

Resistance measured ok, and changed slightly later on IT warm up in my hand.

The clip goes on smooth and snaps into place. I commode't realize why there would be a fault in that respect after testing the leads on the clip and the CTS.

Any other possible points of failure?

Thanks for the help luv2rallye

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Minnesota

You have the carry fans?
When unplugging the CTS do both fans amount on or exclusive one (which one)?

The only other matter I can entertain is for the passenger side lover, perhaps the A-11x fan relay (railway locomotive fusebox, bottom row, 3rd from right) which controls medium quicken, doesn't work. And when you draw in the CTS, the ECU turns the fan on victimisation the other relay (A-13x, which is 5th from right). As a test you could try swapping A-11x (bottom row, 3rd from right) with A-09x (bottom row, 1st from right) to see effectuate. [You may evenhanded fall behind one of the speeds of the drivers position rooter when A/C is on away doing this.]

952g63t

Mishimoto slim fans, wired into the passenger side (main fan) harness feed. The connecter for the drivers side (air con feed) is non used currently.

They both progress when I disconnect the CTS.

I tested the top pins for continuity and swapped around every last of the relays for the fans when I first detected this and there was no switch. Still could exist a bad electrical relay somewhere in thither, I need to apply voltage to them to test the switching function still.

Something other I meant to say, although I am not sure if it was because of my wifes call, my OBD2 instrument was not syncing the other Nox. I am stopping by a buddies house on my right smart home to take up another mechanical man phone to test my tool.

If OBD2 was dead, could that also be from a malfunctioning ECU?

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Minnesota

Yes it could (or unsuitable exponent or ground connected the connective). Your slim fans are 2 cable ones, correct? And they are connected in parallel to the passenger side harness with buff constructive wired to both the white-black-market and empty-blue wires, and fan negative to both the unfortunate and blue-sick wires, correct? If indeed, then sounds like maybe a bad ECU. Can you swap with other ECU?

952g63t · 401 33 Mar 19, 2012 Summit Point, West_Virginia

Yes it could (or repentant great power or flat coat on the connection). Your slim down fans are 2 wire ones, accurate? And they are connected in parallel to the passenger side rein in with fan incontrovertible connected to some the white-black and white-blue wires, and fan unfavourable to both the illegal and blue-immature wires, correct? If so, then sounds like maybe a bad ECU. Can you swap with another ECU?

I followed a write up to the T when I installed them, only that sounds about right.

I do not have some other ECU to test with. Charging up this android phone to visualise if I can fix a temperature reading from the ECU.

EDIT:

No proficient, couldn't get this phone to get in touch either. :barf:

In truth starting to think its my ECU, the power led is lit up along my obd2 scanner.

Next step I guess is to visualize if the bloody OBD2 port is functioning.

952g63t

I was sitting here racking my brains o'er this and was wondering, what if my water pump was failing? If it wasn't circulating plenty water finished the t-housing, could that trigger a false reading off the CTS? But why would the stock gauge sensing element make for?

97_4g63t · 472 49 Jun 6, 2010 Carlsbad, New_Mexico

Thanks for the help/replies.
I wish try out and do some logging when I get home this evening and composition back with results. Specifically, the running temps and any other information I give the sack gather.

Thanks once again,

No noticeable performance issues while the sensor is obstructed in. I drove it with the sensor unplugged for about 25 miles, information technology seemed American Samoa though it was pulling timing surgery something.

Edit:

I was not able to experience my logging tool to work. Really didn't matter because I almost hot on my outing. Fans are not future day on at high-level temps...

I was cruising at 75 for about 20 minutes past my temp started to shoot up then the symbol, never actually passing above IT. Temps came back down after I slowed down.

I retributory dont get IT.

going 75 without fans your machine shouldn't overheat. That should personify plenty of airflow. It never in reality overheated happening the highway though or IT did? Did the fans purpose to work Beaver State did you just scarcely install them?

952g63t

going away 75 without fans your car shouldn't overheat. That should embody plenty of airflow. Information technology never really overheated on the highway though or IT did? Did the fans use to work or did you just hardly install them?

While driving towards the end of my trip I noticed the temporary exceed mid way, and would fluctuate depending on unspecialized speed. If I was going away fast it would get hot, if I was going slow it would go hinder to normal op temp.

Fans worked great all last summer and fall.

luv2rallye · 8,079 931 Jun 7, 2003 Minneapolis, Minnesota

I was posing here racking my brains over this and was wondering, what if my water ticker was failing? If it wasn't circulating enough water through the t-housing, could that trigger a false reading off the CTS? But wherefore would the stock gauge sensor work?

Yes if the CTS wasn't getting hot water on that because faulty water pump or not sufficiency water, that would screw. Make confident the radiator is full and breeze burbed come out: http://World Wide Web.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...ation-temperature-problems.html#post153386862.

DSM1G90 · 5,104 64 Apr 6, 2008 Nampa, Idaho

Been reading this post on a similar issue that just flared up with my 1G90 Optical maser: During a run in town today after getting hit the freeway, my CEL was suddenly coming connected, stay along for a while, then would go off..and come right plunk for on after a minute operating theatre sol...then settled down to remain slay.

And so, other issue has been surfacing happening occasion and happened today with situation above:

My temp guess was dead heart and soul or scarcely on a lower floor dead center..but once in a blue moon on, the gauge would suddenly summit to hot for a few seconds (like if the sending unit telegraph suddenly touched human body), past suddenly retort back to normal reading.

Prior to my leaving home, I did look into coolant level in the radiator and IT's right up to the inner brim of the makeweight area.

Got the fomite home tonight from work and did the beep essa which poked out a code 21 .. Temp Sensing element. I had just replaced the Temp Sensing element a few months agone due to occasional CEL illumination and eventual hard starting from hot.

My temp sensor, being only a a couple of months old is deciding to go dreadful on me so soon?

Thx - DSM

952g63t · Feb 26, 2014

Yes if the CTS wasn't getting hot water along information technology because defective water pump operating theater not enough urine, that would do IT. Piddle sure the radiator is ladened and air burbed out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...ation-temperature-problems.html#post153386862.

When I was in the first place troubleshooting the CTS, I had emptied the coolant and completely refilled, bled the system a hardly a times.

ECU swap went in without a problem (thanks again YUPOK). I did have to trade around my plugs and injectors, just IT discharged right up as was common.

I decided to take a trip to test what happens with the temps and also to fine tune my new Koni's.

I went about 10 miles to a gas place and stopped to pop the hood. It was not overheating but I knew information technology had reached op temporary worker and they should have been running. I unplugged the CTS plug and they kicked on, made some adjustments to my shocks and babied IT back home from there.

Thus, I'm fairly certain that my ECU is fine.

En route there I noticed when I was driving that only my top/middle vents were hot, piece my foot/mix setting was alone ardent-ish. Too, spell cruising it seemed as though going about 50 ish the engine temporary would get warmer, and going 65+ it seemed to simmer down down. Lackadaisical temporary held steady in the middle. The gauge clip to the T-caparison was recently redone and once again, that sensor is also new so I bed the the temporary worker gauge is close.

My water pump? I don't understand how that could be faulty, the impeller is attached directly do the knock assembly. Is there a clutch happening the impeller shaft of light? I thought it was a single piece with some gaskets. My mentation is that it is either spinning the impeller or the shaft is altogether broken, and if the shaft was broken it would overheat without question.

I give a new Gates pump on hand, is information technology possible to swap the pump with the long block still in? I need to look that one up.

I have it away the CTS is salutary. It has to be something with the connection from the ECU to the CTS clip. But again, I tested the voltage from the clip with the inflammation on, it was exhibit 4.5 volts or something close to that. Maybe its a breakable that I missed when testing it. :confused:

I need to check off the CTS clip again. After I unqualified down first :mad:

Lou98GSX · 702 61 Mar 13, 2004 Carmel, New_York

Do you have a way to monitor your coolant temp . If you do then first make sure you have the coolant lidded off . Then start your motorcar and watch the temp . It bequeath go up to 185 and then as the thermostat opens it will come down a little . Next continue to watch the temp rise to 212 then the fans should go happening . If the fans don't go on then cheque that circuit . If the fans go happening then your temporary should part with to come down to 200 and fans should shut off . Now from what your locution that your temps are getting high-pitched while impulsive on parkway so you have a menstruate problem either the thermostat , radiator ,water ticker or even a bad head gasket can cause that .

952g63t

Proven all of the relay race by applying 12v. They all checked out.

To clear-thinking up a trifle of confusion I have about which detector does what;

The 2 wire clip & sensor are the ECU/fan controller connection*

The 1 wire clip is entirely for the gauge*

Is this 100% correct?

And, what exactly should I see at the 2 wire clip with a multimeter w/antitrust the ignition randy?

I dont know where to live on from Hera. :cry:

If Unplug Coolant Sensor Will Fan Run Continuously

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